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Supplies I have on hand

4x HA210N06 external mosfets.
24v 420watt power supply
3x 24v to 12v buc converters

My 330x330 bed on a 12v circuit, it can only get to 50*~60*. The bed has previsions to change it to 24v
My 120x120 bed only consumes only 120watts.
Where I'm at, power costs 150% more than the national average per kwh

Yes, there are several ways to accomplish what you are trying to do, and some of those ways don't involve the config at all. You could just have the wires run from one of the big MOSFETs to a plug (or terminal block) external to the Smoothie and plug in either bed. Or you could simply change the pin assignment in the config from MOSFET 1 (e.g. pin 2.5) to MOSFET 2 (e.g pin 2.7), then you would be controlling the second bed (again assuming you have enough big MOSFETs on the Smoothie because if you are running at 12V you cannot plug a 40W hotend into a small MOSFET because it will pull too much current.).
Or you could get more complicated and connect each to a big MOSFET and create a new module and name it bed2 (or whatever), and have your program access that bed instead of the first one. Or you if you have only 2 big MOSFETs and one is being used up by the hotend and the other by bed1, you could use an external MOSFET and control that via a Smoothie small MOSFET and externally control the bed. Many ways.

Before you stack two heater elements together, then try and run a 12V element with a 24V PS (not a great idea even with PMW) and use an external MOSFET, I encourage you to think more about the problem. What you are proposing is a very inelegant solution to the problem of "I want to save a few bucks on my electric bill". I'm not trying to be argumentative with you, I'm just trying to get you to think about it, because your power consumption cannot be that high—your stock PS is only 360W. My advice is to insulate the bed and that will help a lot and don't not burn down your house trying to literally save a few cents.

I have a Kossel Mini delta printer from 2016.

I replaced the control board (originally came with a MKS Mini-B 1.0. on of the drivers doesn't work) with a Panucatt Re-arm/RAMPS 1.4 board with A4988 drivers

I configured the config file from the smoothieware and panucatt instructions, but I get clicking from the steppers and minuscule movement it doesn't seem to read the endstops.

The config had the default current of 1.5 and I had the ref voltage set at 0.7
It was getting a bit too warm, so I lowered the current to 1.0 and voltage to 0.55 (what it originally came at.

I'm sure that there are a bunch of things to look over, so can someone that has a working Kossel Mini with A4988 drivers and smoothieware working, post their config?

Kossel Mini Config problem by MikekimMikekim, 16 Sep 2018 22:24

Points -
1. Limit power draw for smaller prints
2. option to use larger heater for larger prints

smaller heater 120 x 120 12v heater
Larger heater 315 x 315 12v/14v heater
Larger heater will be run with 24v, through a separate mosfet circuit.

Smaller heater will sit on the bottom the larger one, covered with cork board.

My question is, is there a way to switch between the heaters in the config file?

Hi,
You could have two beds connected to two different big MOSFETs, but it's not clear to me what you are trying to do. You want to have two heated beds that you swap between? If your bed cannot heat up fast enough, or stay at the set point, then I would suggest insulating the bottom of the bed.

Hello everybody, I'm having a problem with my smoothieboard. The problem is that the speed of the stepper motors changes, so sometimes the x- and y-axis move extremely slow.
This happens during prints, so one half of a line is cut at normal speed and suddenly the speed changes and the second half of that line is cut at a very slow speed. It also happens when I manually want to move the x- or y-axis by turning the wheel on my GLCD screen. One out of 10 moves, the speed changes again to a very slow rate.
It doesn't matter what software version of the smoothieware i use, I still have the same problem. I've also tried to test my smoothieboard with just the power supply and only one stepper motor connected, but I still have the same problem…
Could this be a hardware issue with my smoothieboard itself?

Any help would be appreciated a lot, Thanks!
Michiel

Speed problems by MichielD99MichielD99, 14 Sep 2018 12:43

I have a tronxy x5sa printer.

Part of the common issues is the large heat bed is, taking forever to get to PLA temps.
Not all prints are going to use the 300+ x 300+ build area. So, my idea is to get a smaller silicone 12v heater and using that to print for smaller builds while just using a single thermistor, while having the option to print larger builds.
The main purpose is to lower the power used.
I know I can change it to 24v, but there is the added cost of getting the parts to do so, plus the overall power draw for smaller prints.
My question is, is there a way in the config to have it change which heater to used in the context of switching?

I can wire in a relay and a switch, but I want a more elegant solution.

Thanks

Re: PID Cooling
SWCNTSWCNT 08 Sep 2018 22:29
in discussion Smoothie Firmware / General » PID Cooling

Hi,
What do you mean cooling block? Are you referring to the heat sink on a 3D printer or some other application? You need to better describe what you're doing if you want help, from what you've written, it's confusing.

Re: PID Cooling by SWCNTSWCNT, 08 Sep 2018 22:29

Hi there, Im exhausted on researching so I got a quick question…
My 2 phase motor ratings are:
Rated voltage=3V
Current/Phase = 3A
Impendance/Phase = 1 ohm
Inductance/Phase = 4.3mH
Degree/Step .9…

I take it I set my dip switch on my DQ542MA driver to 2.84 peak amp/2.03 RMS setting. Correct me if Im wrong on that, if you feel Im safe to up it, please let me know. In the start up guide, smoothie says to set amp config to your motor settings, it gets me confused since driver setting are set lower than the 3amps, should I still set the config to 3.0?

Thank You!

Smoothieware HELP:
I've been nearly a year with Smoothieware I have been probing the bed for the 3-point leveling scheme, but I do not believe that it is doing anything more than behaving as an end-stop. If I have the bed perfectly trammed then all is well, but if its off at all than I can only print on 1 part of the bed. I set the Z height to 0 and then move X and Y across the bed and I see no Z movement when I purposely set the bed to be about 2mm off. I am using 3-point instead of mesh because mesh does not extrapolate and I didn't know that prior to buildings and I did not want to loose 20mm of 'X' build area. I have a CoreXY machine.

my gcode script is:
;G1 Z10 ; Lower the Bed a bit just in case
G28 X Y ; return to refference position for x and y
G1 X0 Y0 ; linear move
M280 S3.0 ; servo extend
G32 ; prode bed
G1 X0 Y0 F6000 ; linear Move to 00
G30 Z0 ; Set Nozzle Offset from Probe and sets zmin
M280 S7.0 ; servo retract
M280 S10.6 ; servo reset

and the config file looks like:
leveling-strategy.three-point-leveling.point1 150.0,20.0
leveling-strategy.three-point-leveling.point2 280.0,280.0
leveling-strategy.three-point-leveling.point3 20.0,280.0
leveling-strategy.three-point-leveling.home_first true
leveling-strategy.three-point-leveling.tolerance 0.03
leveling-strategy.three-point-leveling.probe_offsets 21,0,0
leveling-strategy.three-point-leveling.save_plane true

I would include the whole file but the collapsible code thing registers as a link and I am a 1st time poster.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

PID Cooling
HH2018HH2018 29 Aug 2018 12:19
in discussion Smoothie Firmware / General » PID Cooling

How to control the Cooling Block temperature with a pwm driven pump via PID (or bang-bang)?

Water cooling can be that strong that you want to reduce the cooling power for the hotend.
I have a Thermistor in the cold part of the hotend and like to PID-control the temperature of the cold end, which is water cooled.

How can I tell the temperature_control module not to heat but to cool?
Or is there another solution?

PID Cooling by HH2018HH2018, 29 Aug 2018 12:19

is there an option to set minimum pwn for pin option similar to the max setting? I need a way to set a min speed for a DC motor to keep from burning it up. I need to keep the power high enough to keep the motor spinning rather than stalling and burning up the brushes and coils.

How many problems is this now ? You are definitely getting the 2018 unlucky of the year award …

Backwards shouldn't ( for most connections ) cause a board death. 24v into 5V, or a short that does the same, might kill the board, but we've very rarely seen that …

Is nothing at all ligthing up ? Not even the 12/24v ( VBB ) led ?

Assuming it's only 3.3v not firing up ( and therefore the mcu too ), you can try replacing the 3.3v vreg, which has been seen to fix the board in many cases.
If after changing that it still won't work ( 3.3v turns on but not the mcu ), then replacnig the mcu ( even though it requires quite a lot of patience ) has been shown to work in pretty much all the cases I've seen it attempted.

Moved a smoothie board from the i3 clone to the hypercube I'm building and no lights come on. It is very conceivable I got some power connections backward, but I didn't keep the power on long given I saw nothing light up. Is there something I can check and possibly repair before replacing the entire board?

Any hints greatly appreciated.

Re: Firmware CR10 by arthurwolfarthurwolf, 22 Aug 2018 14:53

yes of course but it's just to have an example of confguration :)

Re: Firmware CR10 by stephane semalstephane semal, 22 Aug 2018 14:35

First off, you want to read : http://smoothieware.org/troubleshooting#somebody-refused-to-help-me-because-my-board-is-a-mks-what-s-that-all-about

Second, it's a very bad idea to re-use somebody else's configuration file, even if it is for the same machine. It is very important that you read all of the documentation before using Smoothie, If you do not, you are putting yourself at grave risk for your safety. Re-using somebody's config file 99.9% means you are trying to avoid reading/understanding the documentation. That's very dangerous, do not do it.

The documentation is very complete, and hundreds of people use it every month to get their printers running, just read all of it, and you will have no problem getting your machine up and running, no "pre-made" config file required. And if you run into any trouble, you can simply ask for help here.

*Please* if somebody else has a pre-made CR10 config file, do not share it, you would not be helping people, you would be putting them in danger. If they have questions ( like "what is the thermistor type" etc ) you can just answer that, but please don't post the full config.

Re: Firmware CR10 by arthurwolfarthurwolf, 22 Aug 2018 14:31

HI plz i need help :)
I am looking for a config.txt for a mks sbase 1.3 adapted to a cr10, can you help me, thank you

Firmware CR10 by stephane semalstephane semal, 22 Aug 2018 14:24

I use the CW5045 and an pretty happy with it. Pretty much anything from leadshine that matches your needs will be fine. Also look at the external drivers documentation on the wiki it uses a specific driver and lots of folks use that one and like it.

I found out it's because of the external motor driver. Does anyone know a good external motor driver (4 amps or more) that I can quickly get (from Amazon maybe?) that works with the smoothieboard?

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